The Untold Truths About Fast Fashion
BY EMILY ANDREWS
In theory, fast fashion sounds like an absolute dream for most people: new clothes that embody the current trends which are relatively cheap and have quick delivery times. Fast fashion brands like Pretty Little Thing, Missguided and Shein are all examples of sites that seem too good to be true. However, whilst they are fully functioning, we question if they are far from moral.
Have you ever stopped for a minute to consider how these sites are capable of producing an endless amount of clothing; with style ranges constantly being updated and inspired by influencers such as Kylie Jenner, for such affordable prices?
The answer is exploitation. It is simply not possible for garments to be produced on such wide scales in such short timeframes without some negative consequences. As we become more and more acclimatised to online shopping, internet-based fast fashion companies are rapidly gaining popularity.
Online retail is a market which, unlike many businesses, has not suffered but instead has actually benefitted from the pandemic due to the closure of many physical stores. Nowadays, it is possible to browse through fast fashion shops by simply downloading an app.
In making this type of shopping so accessible, consumers are persuaded to treat shopping like social media and make unnecessary purchases as a result of aimless scrolling.
Fast fashion brands often go through much effort to cover their tracks, so the extent of the exploitation that the fashion industry causes remains widely unknown to many.
A common method that brands employ is to frame themselves as being inclusive and diverse, which leads consumers to assume that they are considerate and moral. By consciously trying to give the impression that they are not alienating parts of society, their positive outward image may be improved, but this is massively contradicted by what is taking place behind the scenes.
Ironically, whilst promoting models from ethnic minority backgrounds, it is predominantly people from these backgrounds who are the hardest hit by fast fashion through exploitation, with women being the main victims. This is exemplified in Bangladesh, where 85% of garment workers are women working for long hours with low wages. In order to produce new clothing around the clock and to keep these at affordable prices, employees are incredibly overworked in terrible conditions in order to meet the tight deadlines they are set.
Furthermore, brands may herald themselves in providing employment to thousands of people, predominantly women, adding to the pretence that fast fashion brands are heroic. In reality, these people are forced into low paid manual jobs out of desperation and not choice, with little alternative.
Last autumn, it was brought to the attention of consumers through social media and various tabloids that one of the chemicals which is often used in Pretty Little Thing’s clothing is known to ‘cause cancer and birth defects’, which sparked outrage and shock.
Whilst this is almost harmless to consumers, the effect on those working in factories who are in direct contact with dangerous chemicals on a daily basis must be considered.
Corporations are constantly seeking out new ways to reduce the costs of production, which often involves relocating to increasingly vulnerable areas where employment levels are low.
Until relatively recently, China was renowned as a location for wide-scale production, with ‘made in China’ being a slogan commonly found on clothing, technology and other household items. More recently, China has made its shift from predominantly secondary-sector, manufacturing-based jobs to more tertiary level employment, mainly due to general increases in education levels. Both the employment rates and wage expectations have increased accordingly.
Fast fashion brands have been among some of the first to pick up on global shifts like these and many have subsequently relocated to countries like Vietnam, where the cycle continues and more women are forced into exploitative employment.
Thus, the feminist stance that many of these fast fashion corporations seek to promote is largely hypocritical and is simply performative.
How can we, as consumers, help?
Whilst it is undoubtable that irresponsible governments and capitalist-focused corporations are the driving force behind most evil, there are things that we as consumers can do.
It is easy to begin to feel helpless in these situations, but capitalism is largely dependent on consumers, with supply and demand being what fuels the antics of these corporations.
It is not so much buying a few cheap staples that is the problem, rather it is the normalisation of consumerist culture and excessive buying that fuels capitalism to the greatest degree.
To alienate members of society who cannot afford more sustainably sourced items of clothing is not the answer. Instead, as a whole we must change our mind set and buying habits, without giving into the temptation to overspend unnecessarily.
This year’s FUZE is in aid of two charities: ArtRefuge and Black South West Network.
